Introduction

This is as far east as you can go in China and still find people. The easternmost inhabited islands -- where China first meets the sun every day -- lie in Putuo District in the Zhoushan Archipelago. Witnessing the sun rise over the East China Sea is a heart-stopping experience.

On ancient maps, this eastern compass point is the mysterious kingdom of the Green Dragon of the East, and its misted islands with rocks of bizarre shapes are full of legends about dragon kings and other mythical figures.

Visit Putuo District for sanctuaries of the heart, havens for the imagination and temptations for the palate. Savor the food, relish the culture. Here is the Buddhist island of Putuoshan, a world-famous holy mountain and magnet for pilgrims. Putuo means “beautiful white flower” and “little potala.” It is sacred to Guan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy. Women pray to her for fertility and fishermen also seek her protection from storms.

Sites of Guan Yin’s mythical footprints are scattered about. The site of the Buddhist convent (Baique Convent) where legend has it that she became a nun is on Taohua Island (Peach Blossom Island), as is the cave where she is said to have fled and hidden after a man glimpsed her bathing in the sea.

Apart from legends, history and religion, don’t miss the relaxation and travel experiences offered by other islands. Come for a bounty of seafood everywhere, unspoiled beaches, woods for hiking, craggy seascapes, enduring fishermen’s customs and festivals and the colorful folk paintings known as “Eastern Picassos.” These are great places to get away from it all. Some islands even have been used by Chinese artists for retreats.

It’s not all rustic. Lover’s Isle off Zhujiajian Island offers secluded luxury villas, charming woodlands and quiet beaches. A world-class yacht harbor is being planned.

The fresh seafood is generally prepared Ningbo style – it’s less oily than Shanghai-style, often steamed and even raw, so it’s healthy for you.

The climate is mild, monsoon marine, which is perfect for travelers and holiday seekers. When China swelters, the sea breezes cool the islands, and when China shivers, they remain temperate. The average temperature in August in the archipelago is 26.9 degrees Celsius and the wintertime average is 5.5.

You can experience the life of a fisherman by taking specially arranged coastal fishing cruises from a small island called Mayi (dial Putuo District Tourism Information for more details), and then you can rough it and spend the night in a so-called “fisherman’s lodge” and eat your catch prepared by fishermen’s wives. Restaurants on every island, many with their own specialties, also serve exquisite seafood – and some gourmets make the trip just for the food, especially at Shenjiamen.

Martial arts lovers and fans of Jin Yong (Louis Cha) will also appreciate the TV and film sets of his novels on Taohua Island, collected in the City of the Eagle-Shooting Heroes. Starting from 2004, a martial arts festival is held every other year on the island in summer. The next will be in 2008, the dates to be fixed.

The islands contain a wealth of fishing culture and marine heritage. The archipelago, China’s largest, is also its largest fishery and one of the world’s three largest fisheries. The namesake island of Zhoushan (formerly known as Chusan), China’s fourth-largest island, figured prominently in early Sino-British relations.

It was preferred to Hong Kong by British merchants because of its natural harbors, proximity to the Yangtze River and access to the riches of China’s inland. Britain initially sought trading rights in Chusan in the 1790s and was rebuffed. But after the First Opium War, Britain seized Chusan for about five years until 1846.

However, instead of bearing a grudge about the British invasion 100 years ago, local fishermen bravely rescued 384 British POWs in 1942 from the Lisbon Maru, a stricken Japanese transport ship, accidentally torpedoed by the Americans. Although only three soldiers finally escaped their Japanese captors, the Zhoushan islanders were recognized for their gallantry, righteousness and contribution to the Allied cause in World War II.

All these attractions are easily accessible, especially from Shanghai. You can base yourself in Shenjiamen port, a famous seafood town on Zhoushan Island, and take boats, fast or slow, to other islands. There is an airport at Zhujiajian Island, a half-hour flight from Shanghai. Tourist buses from Shanghai take about six hours. You also can drive.

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